By Carolyn Crawford
Fruitcake is one of those things where you either love it or hate it. If you are not a fan of dried fruits, there is not much to enjoy. You may claim I am “nuttier than a fruitcake” when I tell you this, but I love the stuff—the fruitier and nuttier the better!
For many years, I have made fruitcake before Christmas. I have used different recipes along the way, but often come back to make my favourite. There are many different adaptations on fruitcake, but the traditional recipes are fine with me.
In northern England, fruitcake is served with cheese, typically Wensleydale cheese which is readily available at Christmas time.
Fruitcake is older than you may think. It has long been associated with the Victorians, who revived it by embellishing it with more fruits, nuts, by adding almond paste and icing, and by using brandy, wine, and other alcohols in the aging and storing processes. However, simpler versions of fruitcake are credited much earlier to the Egyptians and the Romans, the latter providing small stores of it as an easy-to-keep item for soldiers to carry in their pockets for nourishment when on the battlefield.
Fruitcake provides nutrient energy without spoiling over time. In fact, fruitcake is known to keep for many decades provided it is replenished with alcohol to prevent drying out. Russell Baker of PBS’ ‘Masterpiece Theater’ fame, once shared that he was the guardian of his family’s fruitcake which he claimed was over 200 years old. To top it off he never liked fruitcake!
Christmas Fruitcake
This is my favourite “go to” recipe. I have made it the most at Christmas. I submit it in memory of Florence Moddison, to whom the recipe belonged. It was published in the Home United Church cookbook in 1995.
Ingredients:
1 lb dates, finely cut
2 lbs seeded raisins (large ones work best)
1 lb pecans chopped
1 lb mixed glazed fruit, cut
1 lb green maraschino or glazed cherries
1 lb red maraschino or glazed cherries
1 cup fresh orange juice OR 1 cup brandy OR 1 cup apricot or cherry brandy
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp almond flavouring
1 tsp vanilla
1 lb butter
3 cups dark brown sugar
12 eggs
4 ¾ cup cake and pastry flour
½ tsp mixed spices (nutmeg and cinnamon)
Directions: Marinate the first seven ingredients for approximately 5-7 days in orange juice or brandy, to which you have previously added baking soda, almond and vanilla flavouring. Fruit is ready when raisins are plumped.
Cream butter, sugar, and eggs in a separate extra-large bowl.
In another separate bowl mix flour and spices.
Add one cup of flour mixture to the marinated fruit mixture.
Mix remaining flour mixture with creamed mixture.
Add fruit to the creamed mixture, stirring by hand thoroughly to evenly distribute fruit in the creamed mixture.
Spoon into greased, floured, lined with parchment paper fruitcake pans (cake release works well if you have it) that have removable bottoms. Any size will do—adjust baking time accordingly. Bake a large 9” square pan at 275°F for 3-4 hours.
To preserve fruitcake for many years, wrap generously with cheesecloth (or clean white linen tea towel) and tie it in place with butcher string. Set this on an oversized piece of aluminum foil. Pour brandy slowly over the top of the covered cake until cheesecloth is soaked. You can flip halfway to cover both top and bottom with brandy but make sure the bottom of the cake rests on the bottom so that the brandy soaks up into the cake. Gather foil tightly around the cake and seal. Store cake in a cookie tin or crock with a lid. You can do this with any size of cake, but bigger pieces will stay moist longer.
I make mine smaller as they get eaten or I give them away as gifts. Store in a cool, sun-free area of your home. Age at least three weeks before slicing and enjoying it. Repeat this process every time you open it and at minimum every 4-6 months depending on moistness.
Fruitcake Icing
To ice a fruitcake, use a base of almond paste and a covering of royal icing. (See Royal Icing in last month’s Rural Voice.)
Wedding cakes were often a fruitcake with both of these icings on the cake. You can use either or both as a topping for your Christmas fruitcake. Here is an almond paste recipe from the 1915 edition of the Five Roses Cookbook.
Almond Paste
Blanch and skin one pound of almonds. Dry them well and then grind to a smooth paste, which means putting them through the food chopper several times. (You can skip this step and use ready peeled almonds and process them in the food processor.)
Add three eggs slightly beaten and mix well. Then add a dash of salt, and gradually add enough icing sugar to make a stiff paste.
Turn out onto a board lightly dusted with icing sugar and knead until smooth. Place the paste in a bowl, cover tightly and store in a cool place overnight. Then roll out the paste to about 1/3-inch thickness on a board lightly dusted with icing sugar. Cut the paste in shapes to fit the sides and top of the cake.
To apply almond paste, first brush the surface of the cake with slightly beaten egg white. Then cover with the pieces of almond paste to the sides of the cake, pressing together well at the corners. Place the piece on top and join to the sides by pressing together.
Since I have already made fruitcake this year, next I will make Grandma Breadner’s Carrot Pudding with Brown Sugar Sauce. Like fruitcake, it can be made ahead of time and stored.
I once had some in my basement fridge that I had forgotten about for almost a year. My mum’s friend would not let me throw it out. She took it home and as she said, “enjoyed every bite!” I have an original pudding bowl, with a lid that you tie down with string, to steam my pudding in but as the bowl is an antique, I am too afraid to use it. I do have other bowls that I use for steamed puddings that I cover with foil and use an elastic to secure it. You can also use a Pyrex bowl or casserole dish.
Grandma B’s Christmas
Carrot Pudding
Ingredients:
3 cups seedless raisins
1 cup dried currants
½ cup finely chopped pitted dates or prunes
1 cup chopped mixed candied peels and citron
¾ cup blanched & halved almonds (optional)
1 ½ cups sifted pastry flour or 1 1/3 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
¾ tsp each of cinnamon and nutmeg
1/3 tsp each allspice, mace, ground cloves, & ginger
1 ½ tsp salt
1 ½ cup each ground suet, soft bread crumbs, shredded carrot, shredded apple & shredded potato
1 ½ cup lightly packed brown sugar
4 large eggs
1/3 cup fruit juice (I use apple or cranberry)
Directions: In a large pastry bowl, mix raisins, currants, dates, peels, and almonds, if used. (I do not as my family is not nuts about nuts!) Measure and sift together flour, baking powder, spices, and salt. Add to fruit and stir thoroughly. Add suet, bread crumbs, brown sugar, apple, carrot, and potato, stirring thoroughly.
Beat eggs in a separate bowl until light; add to mixture. Stir in fruit juice mixing well.
Turn mixture into well greased pudding bowls filling no more than ¾ full. Cover with foil and tie a string or put an elastic around the bowl to seal. Steam over rapidly boiling water, closely covered for 3 ½ hours.
Serve hot with Brown Sugar Sauce.
Note: Always check to see if water in the steamer needs to be replenished.
Brown Sugar Sauce
Ingredients:
2 ½ cups brown sugar
3-5 tbsp cornstarch
½ tsp salt
4 cups boiling water
2 tbsp butter
2 tsp vanilla extract
Directions:
Combine sugar, salt, and cornstarch in a saucepan; add boiling water. Stir to dissolve.
Cook over medium-low heat until mixture boils for about 5-10 minutes. Stir constantly or lower heat as necessary to avoid scorching. Remove from heat; add butter and vanilla. (You may also add rum or brandy as flavouring—reduce the amount of boiling water to substitute in.)
Serve hot over steamed pudding. You may vary the thickness of sauce by increasing or decreasing the amount of cornstarch as to your preference.
May you all enjoy the fellowship of the holiday season and the food you share at it.
All the best in 2024! ◊